Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About eternalnewb

  • Rank
    Alpha Mac Geek
  1. eternalnewb

    New i5 Macbook Pro acting EXTREMELY unstable?

    I will... but first it turns out I probably need to do a proper erase and install The reinstall of the system alone appeared to get everything working alright for about 10 minutes, and then all the old problems came back. I didn't necessarily expect it to work when I realized it hadn't actually changed any data, it figures... either way though I'm off to do that now. Making sure I do a real erase and install has every reason to work, I think. Any glitched software should be fully replaced when I do it the right way... but we'll see.
  2. eternalnewb

    New i5 Macbook Pro acting EXTREMELY unstable?

    I used the OS installer disc intending to wipe the computer and do a clean install-- instead I accidentally reinstalled the system while leaving the applications and users untouched. However, this seems to have worked! Everything is running right now from what I've seen in the small amount of time since finishing the reinstall-- at the very least, the applications that had been giving me trouble are now quitting normally. Thanks for the help everyone!
  3. eternalnewb

    New i5 Macbook Pro acting EXTREMELY unstable?

    Creating a new user account did not fix the quitting problem. Additionally, it seems to have its own issue where certain applications opened under the new user account cannot access vital data (which should be stored within the game folder, not the other user account-- there's no reason for this to happen...), causing them to start up but refuse to actually work (I tried 2 games which would load the main screen but then return an error on trying to actually play). The new account does have admin privileges. I'm going to back up all my data and do a clean install now.
  4. eternalnewb

    New i5 Macbook Pro acting EXTREMELY unstable?

    I do have an external hard drive, I'll try that-- thanks for the advice. Do you think a new primary user account will be sufficient to get rid of most of the settings or other things that may be causing issues? Or would a clean install and then moving the data over really be best? I'll try a new user account and report back, I guess... if that fails I'll clone my data and start over.
  5. Hi all...it's been ages since I've visited this forum... unfortunately what brings me here now is that you guys are a fairly knowledgeable bunch of Mac users and you might have some insight into a problem I'm having. Well, several problems. You can follow the issues I'm having here: http://www.ambrosiasw.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=128300 My username at those forums is jrsh92. To summarize though... I got a base model 15" i5 Macbook Pro just a couple of days ago. I migrated all of my data over from my old iBook G4 using the data assistant thing that pops up the first time you use the computer (I moved the data immediately, I did not set it up and then go to "migration assistant" later). My first impression of it was basically that it seems extremely fast. No application I own appears to really strain it, and I can easily run tons of things at once-- no need to shut down iTunes, Mail, Chrome or Firefox, etc when I want to record stuff in garageband. In this way it's very stable-- it manages multitasking very well, and nothing slows down (on my old computer garageband would refuse to play back or record and occasionally crash if there was almost anything competing with it for memory). However, a number of programs refuse to quit properly. After closing all open windows when I tell the application to quit, it just hangs. Only force quitting it will make it truly go away, and it also cannot be restarted to a useable state from there without being force quit first. With a few of these I assumed that an older version of the program, if I took it direct from my old computer, just wasn't going to run well on the new Intel based computer. But then the list started to grow and I seriously doubt that PPC-Intel transition has anything at all to do with some of the programs' problems: Warcraft 3-- latest version is supposed to be universal and it DOES run very well until I need to quit it-- nothing really suggests the program generally "not playing nice", it just won't quit. VLC latest version (when playing back a DVD)-- this is definitely updated to work well on x86. It's been consistently in development and I just grabbed the latest update, there is no way this is incompatible with x86 or the latest version of OS X. Hordes of Orcs-- This is a universal app and since I think it has been around for less time than x86 Macs, I seriously doubt this is designed for the old architecture-- something else is causing it to not quit properly. Force quitting things doesn't appear to be causing any other problems-- though I get a "do you want to send an error report?" message every single time I shut one of those things down, because I'm force quitting them. The most recent glitch though (copied from the other forum): Hm... while playing the COD2 demo just now the computer hung very irrevocably-- the screen just froze and the sound sort of tapered out. I got the wristwatch icon as a cursor and could move it around the screen, but could make nothing else change. The force quit command didn't do anything, nor did any button or combination of buttons that I could think of. I waited for a couple minutes and tried to force quit again to no avail-- decided to force it to shut down. Holding the power button down for 6 seconds did nothing... I unplugged it and flipped it over only to find that you can't even pull the battery on this model to shut it down because the battery is built in. I tried a couple more times-- eventually I pressed the power button and held it down for about a half a second before the computer shut down. Startup appeared normal. Basically, this thing is freezing left and right in various ways-- and it just proved that those freezes CAN be severe enough to take down the whole system if it happens to be in a bad mood. Except I can't even yank the power because it's a unibody! So when it freezes like this and won't shut down when I hold down the power button, I'm totally screwed until it decides to cooperate. Any thoughts on this? I can avoid Call of Duty just fine if it's going to nuke the computer but... I'm pretty sure that OS X has a reputation of being "not nukeable" for a reason-- there has to be something wrong here. I'd never experienced anything that bad with my iBook and there are supposed to have been serious advances in stability since Tiger, right? One suggestion that was made over at Ambrosia is that the programs which aren't quitting are those which trigger the discrete GPU. I could see that-- the games which have the problem are absolutely using the GPU heavily and would make the 330M turn on. VLC did it to me while playing back a DVD once-- perhaps the DVD playback made the 330M kick in. Chrome has refused to quit as well... might Youtube or CNN video make the GPU kick in? If that's possible, I could say with some certainty that programs which use the GPU almost universally are hanging on quitting. That doesn't fix anything though! Sorry about the long post, and thanks in advance for any help... I'm really hoping this gets resolved. I spend half my time on this computer wrestling with it to open and close programs like this, it had better not act like that indefinitely.
  6. Another way to do it, though using a TDM mode computer as the install target is a far more elegant solution, would be to install Tiger on the computer it is willing to install to, and then using TDM simply copy that computer's hard drive to the computer you want Tiger on. This will work. As can be observed if you back up your computer onto a Firewire hard drive and then boot another computer off of that Firewire hard drive, once OSX is installed there are no files making that hard drive or specific install work only on one computer. The disks included, however, with a computer are designed to install only on that computer, in order to prevent exactly what you're doing, which is upgrading one computer from another computer's disks without paying them for the OS again.
  7. Wow, it's been a long time since I've been here. Like a year or so. Either way, here it goes: In Mail, if I want to make something a link, I have to select it, right click on it, select "Edit Link" and then enter the URL. I'm not too fond of this, as it 1. isn't the slickest way to do it, requiring navigating a menu, which seems silly for such a commonly used function, and 2. requires a right click. I'm not sure if anyone else has noticed this, but for the first time you right click when a given application is open, it will take a while to load the right click menu. Subsequent right clicks load quickly. Now, this is fine if I've just turned on the computer and right click in Camino-- it takes a while to load, but only once in a long browsing session. However, if I want to open up Mail out of the blue to shoot off a quick message it can become a touch annoying. So, I was wondering if I could assign, or if there already was, a key command to directly being up the URL entry window. You'd get to skip the right click and finding the menu item, not to mention it adds to being able to navigate almost entirely by keyboard-- something that on OSX (Tiger in my case) is quite possible, between cmd+tab, tab, and all the unique key commands in different apps to navigate within them. Another quick question I have which was actually brought up on another forum but which nobody knew the answer to, is: can you show and hide the dock with a key command? You can turn on and off hiding with a key command, which is nice, but if you get your mouse too close to the bottom of the screen with hiding on, the dock pops up. Basically, you can use a key command to toggle whether the dock has the ability to be hidden ("hiding") but you can only use the mouse to control whether it's actually hidden at any given time. Is there a way to use the keyboard to control this instead of having the mouse being close to unhide it? Or maybe a tweak that would disable the mouse's ability to "show" the dock-- this would let you use "hiding on/hiding off" to mean "hidden/shown" as there would be no way to make it shown while hiding was on. Thanks for reading. Any help will be appreciated.
  8. eternalnewb

    Advanced repair question....

    In all of the tutorials online about replacing an iBook or other older -Book hard drive, there are constant warnings about how you really want to take the connector out of the socket when unplugging cables. Not the cable out of the connector. Not the socket out of the motherboard. Okay, say the socket separated from the motherboard (it was loose already, I was really trying to disconnect the cable but every little wiggle I made went straight to loosening the socket from the motherboard). Specifically, the power button's cable. That means there are only two pins. How would one go about reattaching this? I have tried superglue only to find that although the socket can be attached, there is no functionality. I am thinking some sort of conductive epoxy when strategically placed could allow me to make the thing work without my even having to un-superglue the socket and try something else. Yes, I know just superglueing it down was dumb. Breaking it in the first place was bad. What makes it worse is that I suspect superglue is non-conductive. But this isn't a question of what I should have done, it's a question of what I need to do now. Basically, the bottom of the socket has two metal strips, that extend a very short way past the edge of the (plastic) socket itself. The motherboard has two matching metal strips. Please help. If can't help but you know of a forum where I am more likely to get a response, please point me there... this just doesn't seem like the right place to ask this question, but I don't know where to put it (it's already in the "tech" section of another forum, too, and except a little confusion about what I was asking, it's gotten no response).
  9. eternalnewb

    Best audio burning software for mac

    Hmm... might you have been making MP3, not standard (AIFF) CD's?
  10. eternalnewb

    Games that WORK with the MacBook

    It doesn't have limited VRAM. It has intregrated graphics, that share system RAM, right? Also, you need internet to play WOW!
  11. I expected it to at least be a network drive. What I could see being a problem is the Airport extreme using hubs properly. It has one USB port, but with a big enough hub, or even better, a hub built into a hard drive, you could have more than one printers, a few hard drives, and one of them could definitely be an iPod.
  12. eternalnewb

    DRM Free Music Hits

    Only a single song that I've bought will upgrade. The rest are aparently not EMI or are stupid. I can upgrade only one Gorillaz song that I've bought-- not other Gorillaz songs or any other artist seem to be upgradeable. I want Nirvana Plus! Not too many of my favorite bands are EMI.
  13. eternalnewb

    Strange experience...

    Don't worry. EXE's do not work on Macs. The files do not do anything. Get Little Snitch. There is a fully functional free trial, that you need to start up again every 3 hours. But it works. Run it, plug in the Shuffle. You will be able to see and shut down any communication with the internet before it happens. Highly useful. Warning: Little Snitch may cause flaming napalm style death if a game tries to check for updates as it starts, sees an active internet connection and no standard firewall, but is blocked by Little Snitch. In this case, command+tab to Little Snitch, tell it to let the game through, go back to the game, the flaming napalm death will cease and you can play.
  14. eternalnewb

    10.4.10 on the horizon

    Realistically, whenever OS 11 happens, naming it won't be a problem because plain old Oh-Ess-Eleven sounds pretty good.
  15. eternalnewb

    LEDs on the fromt of iBooks.

    Duct tape is good advanced technology. I hate this, too. I put my matte black mouse in front if it, or shut down at night (I like shutting down, no excuse for having it plugged in so I can switch off my power strip to kill the 50 million other LED's in my room. Better yet, leave it awake running Folding @ Home. http://folding.stanford.edu/