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Posts posted by car1son

  1. I don't think spotlight will find it, because it doesn't by default search /System.





    (also needed:)



    If you find that, you can use the "Always Open With..." and select Other, or use Finder / Get Info and make DiskImageMounter the default for all .dmg files again.

  2. If I may vent a personal gripe about WireTap....


    I used to use Wiretap Pro. One weekend, I wanted to get a large project done, but my Mac had been acting up, so I decided to do a clean install so I wouldn't have problems with the weekend project. I backed up my data, wiped the HD, reinstalled the OS & my apps. When I got to reinstalling Wiretap Pro, I learned my license had "expired". Surprisingly, Ambrosia Software's license codes expire. It needed to be renewed. There was no charge to renew, I just had to send them a request with my old license and they'd send me a current one. Which isn't what you want to learn on a Friday evening after CoB; I certainly never expected that I'd only rented what I thought I'd bought. The free renewal arrived early Tuesday.


    Ambrosia's licensing policy is not just a PITA, it offends me. When I buy a product, I expect to own it. If they want to charge for updates, that's fine, and if the old s/w doesn't work with a new OS version and I need to buy an update, that's fair, too. But what I already bought should be mine. I don't expect to have to go back to the maker and beg to be allowed to use what I already bought.


    I've never used an Ambrosia Software product since.


    FWIW, Audio Hijack ( http://www.rogueamoeba.com/audiohijack/ ) can grab audio from the Mac, too, and it costs less than Wiretap Studio. Neither is free. (I'm not currently a user of either product, however.)

  3. Trash isn't exactly a safe place to keep files you really want to keep.


    I don't know of a way to remove just one volumes Trash files via Finder. You can do it in Terminal, but you need to be very careful, because you'll need to use a very powerful command as root, and getting it wrong could not just remove files from the Trash but files from all over your Mac.


    Here's the Terminal commands that removes the Trash from a removable volume named "Xtra Data".

    MyMac:~ me$ sudo -s
    bash-3.2# cd "/Volumes/Xtra Data/.Trashes/"
    bash-3.2# ls
    bash-3.2# cd 501
    bash-3.2# ls
    bash-3.2# rm -rf *
    bash-3.2# ls

    (sudo will require a password the first time you use it, and will only work if you are using an Admin account.)

    "Xtra Data" is the name of my removable volume. Replace that with the name of your jump drive.

    501 is my "userid" (UID); yours will probably be 501, too, unless you have more than one account on the Mac, in which case it might be 502, 503, etc.

    If one of these commands returns an error message, you should STOP and figure out what went wrong. Don't just go on typing the next command. The Unix command "rm -rf *" when using root (the result of the sudo -s command) is VERY powerful. Do it in the wrong directory, it'll happily do exactly what you say without question, even if that means erasing every file on your hard disk.


    I did this the long way, to check the files I was about to delete before I deleted them. A short way is just sudo rm -rf "/Volumes/Xtra Data/.Trashes/", if you're comfortable with the Terminal.


    Be careful.

  4. OK, this is weird. I ran through the steps you recommend and it turned out to be the USB cable from the Cinema Display power adapter. But the buzz continues even with the adapter UNPLUGGED.

    In that case, perhaps it's one of the peripherals conected to the USB on the Cinema Display ? E.g., if your MacBook USB connects to the Cinema Display power adaptor, and the power adaptor is connected to the Cinema Display, and the Cinema Display is connected to a USB disk drive or hub or scanner or printer, and that's connected to a power adaptor that's plugged into the wall, then that's another possible path for a ground loop.


    Ground loops are one of the great wonders of electronics. Ground is supposed to be "zero potential" in any electric circuit. It's the external sleeve of any shielded RF, audio, video, ethernet, TV, USB or Firewire cable (or an ADB or AppleTalk cable, for that matter! Anything but fiber). Ground spreads like a web through your home: from every power socket, from your ISP, through the cable/DSL modem, the router, all the computers on the router connected by ethernet, all the peripherals connected to all the computers by ethernet, USB, Firewire, and then over to your TV set, its cable/satellite box, its audio amp, the DVD player, the CD player, the VCR, whatever, it's one giant tapestry of "ground". If any one of those isn't completely grounded where it should be, if there's minor resistance someplace along a path (a corroded connector or plug, cold solder joint, sloppy crimping) then a small current can flow through what should be "ground" to equalize the small voltage difference. US power being 60Hz, this often shows up in analog devices as a low hum leaking into the audio, or a couple of horizontal bars rolling up an analog NTSC TV screen.

  5. Depending on the sound of the buzz and your setup... My first guess would be a 60-cycle hum, leaking in from the power system, possibly due to a ground loop.

    Test: remove all other connectors from the MacBook (disconnect power, run on battery; disconenct ethernet, USB, firewire, video out, everything except the headphone jack.) Place MacBook on non-conductive surface (so it isn't touching any metal). See if hum persists. (If the hum goes away, plug other stuff back in one at a time to isolate the circuit with the ground loop.)

  6. I always hilite the "Macintosh HD" (or equivalent.)


    The "upper level one" is the disk itself. The "lower level" are the volume(s). You can partition a drive into multiple logical volumes, though the Mac comes with only a single partition on the internal drive. For example, my iMac shows this configuration:




    The internal drive (on top) has two paritions: "iMacHD" as the OSX boot partition, and "WINDOZE" as the bootcamp partition with Windows XP installed. The Maxtor external drive has a single Time Machine partition. The WD external drive has three partitions: a bootable clone of the iMacHD partition, lots of extra data space, and a bootable "eDrive" partition (set up by TechToolPro.) [And, yeah, i know, I don't really need the eDrive, the bootable clone would serve fine by itself.]


    Running Verify or Repair disk on the drive causes Disk Utility to Verify or Repair all the volumes on that drive. If you only have one volume, they're equivalent.

  7. You should find a copy of the iLife software that came bundled with your MacBook on the software install/restore DVD that came with that MacBook. However, it will only let you install it on the loaner MacBook if it's the exact same model as your under-repair Macbook. Other than that, you might ask the store if you they can include the iLife that should have been bundled on the MacBook.


    You can find suggestions for moving tracks from your iPod to your new iTunes in this post: http://forum.maccast.com/index.php?showtopic=14895

    (If you have iTunes-purchased DRM-protected content, you'll need to authorize the loaner MacBook for your account with the iTunes store. If you do that, be very sure to de-authorize that MacBook before you give it back.)

  8. Oh, you had one more question, and I forgot to mention something....


    You need Leopard to restore a complete Time Machine backup. However, the TM drive does contain files, and it's not hard to navigate that hierarchy and find specific files or folders and restore them manually with Finder from earlier OS X versions, in a pinch.


    What I forgot to say is that I have so far had no success getting a booted CCC clone to pick up a TimeMachine backup as if it were a backup of the clone. When I boot from my CCC clone, TM "knows" it's a backup of a different drive. (If I have TimeMachine on, it will want to backup the entire CCC paritition all over again, and will try to delete a lot of valuable TM backups trying to make room for that.) In some ways, if your TM backup is the most recent, the easiest way to get it up on the clone partition is insert & boot from the Leopard install DVD and have it restore the TM backup onto the CCC partition. I.e., it's more important to have a sufficiently large partition to do the restore to thatn it is to have a working clone on it.

  9. There's no problem putting a carbon copy clone on one partition of a drive and Time Machine on another partition. (Make sure you're consistent whether file names should be case sensitive when formatting all three volumes, though.) The only drawback is the CCC partition will significantly reducd the capacity of the disk available to Time Machine. (Your external Hard drive should be at least twice as large as the Mac Mini's internal drive, since you'll be backing up at least two full copies, one with each utility.) You can boot from a CCC on an enxternal drive's partition - I do that for my iMac often.


    (You could even use both to a single partition - the main reason not to put TM & CCC ont he same partition is that TimeMachine will chew up all disk space until the drive is full, which will eventually cramp CCC from getting a full backup done. I don't recommend that, just thought I'd throw out the concept that TM doesn't actually need a dedicated partition.)


    I use both CCC and TM as well. As your friend recently discovered, the advantage of the CCC backup is that if yur hard drive fails due to hardware, you're already good to go from the backup; while if you only have a TimeMachine backup, you're dead until you get a new drive on which to restore it, since TM isn't bootable. OTOH, TM's advantage is ease of use and depth of backup. I like belt & suspenders. (I'd like it even better if they were separate external drives.)


    BTW, when I got my first Intel Mac, I used Migration Assistant to move from a PPC eMac to the iMac, and it worked out fine for me.

  10. The new version 0.9.3 of Handbrake ( http://handbrake.fr/ ) will now convert most video file formats (e.g. avi, mkv, wmv, dv, flv) to something suitable for iTunes / iPod. That makes it a nice, free replacement for the now defunct VideoHub & iSquint video converters.

    However, the new Handbrake will no longer decrypt a DVD (deCSS is gone.) That makes it compliant with anti-circumvention laws without arguing about fair use; though it's also less convenient, as it now needs to be used in combo with MacTheRipper in order to get a DVD you own into iTunes/iPod. Which is a reason to hang on to the older Handbrake 0.9.1 version, too.

  11. I have 6 external FW drives (various manufacturers) on my iMac - in 2 chains. I keep the FW800 and FW400 separate. (I can chain FW400 and FW800, but then the FW800's work at FW400 speed, so I keep the FW800's on a separate bus.)


    On the other hand, I have two identical external Seagate 400GB USB/USB2.0/FW400/FW800 external drives (ST340063), and I can only connect one of them to my iMac at a time via FW. If I plug them both into the FW ports and power both on at the same time, they both disappear, just as you described with the camera and LaCie drive. (I can plug one of them and all 5 of my other external FW drives into the FW ports at the same time, no problem - just only one of the Seagates at a time. Since they are multi-interface drives, I plugged one of them into USB2 instead, as a work-around.)

  12. I think Apple initially restricted the eMac to educational customers, but later opened it up to us igurent. I have an eMac (PPC) I bought through vanilla retail (MacConnection, eMac 17"/1.25/256/80/SD/56K, 2004-05-06.)

  13. I tried what you described with Mail 3.5 under OSX 10.5.6, but it always seems to Move or Copy as I command.


    Any chance you've installed any OSX extensions to enhance the user interface - menu customization, new menu-bar items or eye candy or something? It's possible something like that is cofusing things.


    I assume none of the folders you're copying or moving with are Smart Folders. E.g., I have a "Recent Mail" smart folder - and if I "Move" from there, the message moves to the specified mailbox folder, but stays in the smart folder, since it still meets the smart folder criteria of being "recent".


    BTW, you can select and drag multiple mail items at a time, as a work-around.

    Also as a work-around, if you right-click (control-click) on a mail item in the list pane, you'll get a contextual pop-up menu with Move and Copy functions that might be worth trying out instead of going up to the menu bar.)d of going up to the menu bar.)

  14. OS X doesn't by itself. There used to be some packages that did driver-level encryption of hard disk data - LaCie's SilverLining was one I used under OS9. It didn't allow you to encrypt an existing drive though - it had to be done when creating the partition. I don't know that it supports OSX, I haven't used it lately.


    I use a different approach these days: I keep all sensitive data (personal finance, business & client data) in OS X encrypted disk images. (Create with Disk Utility, specifiy AES encryption, and they require a password to access, but once opened they behave pretty much like any external volume or folder. You can browse them in Finder, and open or save files to them like any other folder. You don't usually notice they are there (except when you supply the password that you didn't put on the Keychain.) OS X decrypts teh file content "on the fly", so there's no clear text copy of the data lying around if your laptop or compuer or disk drive is stolen.) If you wish, you can put the password(s) into the keychain, and they'll open themselves anytime you're logged in with the keychain open.


    In this way, the encryted .dmg file is all that ever exists and all that ever gets stored on my mac or backed up - to my Time Machine drive, to my Carbon Copy Cloner backup, and to my more permanent DVD backups.


    I go even further by putting my OS X Mail data on an encrypted disk image, too, since every now and then some email include personal info or passwords or "secret questions." But I leave the iTunes and iMovie and "ordinary" data alone.


    Some disadvantages to consider:

    - If you change any file in the encrypted disk image, it's the entire disk image that's changes, and your Time Machine backup will back up the whole thing, so you use a little more Time Machine space. (I minimize this by using a different disk image for each project or purpose - e.g. "Taxes2007, Taxes2008, etc.) I treat disk images as casually as folders.

    - There's a minor performance hit since files are decrypted as they are accessed or written. Usually that's not noticable, unless you're using it for very hi-rez image editing or video.

    - The .dmg files, and any backups of them, are only accessible from OSX. So in an emergency, you won't be able to take a backup over to a Windows PC and get to your data. (Depending on the data, there may not be a Windows program that can read it, anyway.)


    There are other utilities for encrypting data in folders. I think the disk image encryption built into OSX is excellent, and the only reason to consider a different solution would be if you wanted somethign cross-platform that could access your encrypted data on a Windows or Linux PC.)


    (BTW, back in the 80s I had an external SCSI HD for my original FatMac stolen during a burglary, so your concern is not unfounded.)

  15. If I have an .flv video, am I able to convert it to an iTunes format and drag & drop to iTunes?

    Quicktime Pro + Perian ( http://www.perian.org/ ) will do that conversion, too. With Perian, QT will play flv files.


    Or, you might try an on-line service, such as http://www.mediaconverter.org/ (upload a file from your hard drive, and specify you want it converted to an mp4, wait a bit, then download the converted file.)


    It's too bad VisualHub and iSquint have been discontinued. If you can find a copy of those old programs, they do video conversions between lots of formats.

  16. By the way, I suggest turning OFF Time Machine before doing the clone. After you make a clone, when you boot from it (test it first) Time Machine won't automatically recognize your current TM backup data as being from the same disk. As a result, it will try to backup all your data again, which will probably mean doing some severe pruning of old backups from the drive to make room for all that data (which is why I sugest it be turned OFF during this time, so you don't lose backup data you will want.)


    When you're all done, you can turn Time Machine back on. (I've seen a hack on MacOSXhints about how to tweek the UUID to trick TM into picking up the backup from a clone as if it were the original. Maybe I can find it again.)

  17. I like to suggest booting in Verbose mode: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1492

    This dumps a lot of plain scrolling text about the Unix boot process onto a black screen at startup. Sometimes the last batch of lines before things die will suggest some sort of error, such as missing files or access errors or dying processes. Sometimes that even hints towards a possible solution. If not, just looking at all that text and nodding knowingly will impress the neighbors.



    Backups are always a good idea. They're an even better idea when there are problems. And they're a really, really good idea before reinstalling OS X. but if you select Archive and Install, the results should leave your user data alone. (You will probably have to reinstall any system extensions / drivers, but most Apps should stay good.) You'll also need to download and install the most recent combined OS X updater from Apple (or wade through Software Update.) Since your Mac boots from the DVD, that suggest your H/W is good and your OS is corrupt.

  18. I don't think you will want to wipe out the OS that comes pre-installed on your new Mac and replace it with a restore fo your latest Time Machine backup.

    For one thing, you are switching from PPC to Intel.

    Also, your new Mac will come with some new apps bundled, such as the latest iLife, which you probably don't have on your old Mac (at least at the new version.)


    You should be able to just use the Migration Assistant to get your data off of your latest Time Machine backup and onto your new Mac without pulling the OS along. ("From a Time MAchine backup" is one of the options for the source of Migration data.) The Migration Assistant should start up automatically when you first boot the new Mac, but if not, it's in the Aplications/Utilities folder.


    Or, you can always access your old TimeMachine drive just like an ordinary disk (via Finder.) Dig down into the hierarchy, Backups.backupdb/OldSystemName/Latest/OldDiskName/Users and you'll find your old user folder with all the data (under the "Latest" date.) You can just copy that stuff back onto your new Mac from there.

  19. hey, AA,


    Because Album names aren't necessarily unique, iTunes usually decides two tracks are part of the same Ablum if they have the same Album name and Artist. Being part of the same Album shows up in coverflow and Album groupings.


    You can override that default in two ways: "Part of a Compilation" means different artists worked on the different tracks on the same Album (such as Musicals or "Greatest Hits of the 60s"-type albums) iTunes ignores the Artist name and groups all tracks based on just the Album name. (You can see how that would fail to do the right thing if you had two compilation albums with the same name.)


    Setting the "Album Artist" has much the same effect - iTunes then groups tracks into a single Album based on the same Album name and Album Artist name. This is more useful if you have two compilation albums with the same name.


    You can access these settings in iTunes by selecting all the tracks of the Album and selecting "Get Info..." from the File menu (or just command-I.) The "Album Artist" is on the Info tab, and the Compilation setting is a Yes/No pull-down on the Options tab. (The Sorting tab also has "Sort Album" and "Sort Album Artist" settings, but I haven't played with them enough to know how they'd interact.)

  20. I should also have asked if it's possible your Macbook thinks there's a 2nd monitor connected to it (the desktop may be appearing there.) The easiest way to check is to view Expose/Spaces via the F6 key to see if a 2nd monitor appears in the Expose display.


    My next suggestion is that you look in your Library/Preferences folder for the file "com.apple.finder.plist", and drag that out of the Preferences folder (stash it somplace else), then relaunch Finder (via Force Quit dialog from teh Apple menu.) If that works, trash the old "com.apple.finder.plist" file; it doesn't work, you can put it back and Relaunch Finder again to restore your old preferences.