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Posts posted by car1son

  1. I can remember having problems copying massive amounts of data with Finder many years ago, under much older Mac OS and with a lot less RAM. I always attributed it to bad RAM management by Finder, though I think that was mere conjecture on my part. These days I regularly copy 50+ GB of files among internal and external firewire and USB hard drives without problem.


    You might check the system.log ( sudo tail -100 /var/log/system.log ) when the copy hangs, just to see if there's a clue there. Sometimes it'll have an obscure error that suggests what the problem is.


    As a work-around, you could try the copy with the Terminal. cp -R ~username /Volumes/"HD Name"/ ought to do it. (Be careful with pathnames containing spaces or other unusual characters; Unix can be unforgiving.) At least if that fails, there'll probably be an error message.

  2. I copy my AddressBook folder from my 10.5 iMac to my 10.4 TiBook regularly. 10.4's Address Book app reads the 10.5 data just fine.

    (I also copy my 10.5 Mail folder to my 10.4 tiBook. It reads the mail fine, but the Smart Folders disappear.)


    Jerry, are you using the same version of Firefox on both systems ?


    You might check with the Profile manager to see if you are using an older profile stored on the old 10.4 drive someplace:

    See this support article: http://support.mozilla.com/en-US/kb/Managing+profiles


    (As a fall-back, you can select Firefox's "Organize Bookmarks..." on the old system, then "Export HTML..." to export the old bookmarks to a flat file, then use "Import HTML..." on the new system to re-read them.) Or try FoxMarks as Harry pointed out.

  3. I don't know specifics of the Exchange server certificates, but I suppose they use standard x.509 certificates as per SSL and other infrastructure? I don't know what decoding them will do for you, but a couple of web sites can decode them on-line:








    That'll tell you the identifiy of the certificate's issuer, but not the issuer's certificate. You'll still need to find that. (Usually through an LDAP service, though Exchange may have its own mechanism.)

  4. I'd start by trying to zap the PRAM. Turn on the power while simultaneous holding the Command, Option, P and R keys down. (Yeah, you need a third hand for that.) Wait for startup chime to sound twice.



    Then, try powering up with the Option key down. That should give you a choice of boot volume.


    What CD are you trying to boot the iMac from? If you insert the "restore" CD or DVD that came with the iMac and power on with the D key held down, you may be able to access the Apple hardware test (AHT).


  5. Miro (used to be called "the Democracy Player" for reasons unknown) plays videos from its "channels", and you can have it pre-download new vids from those channels to watch when you want. I have it installed on an older Mac, though I haven't used it much (most of its channels that I was interested in have podcast feed and I found it easier to just let iTunes manage them for me.)


    If your purpose is to download videos from YouTube so you can keep them or watch them on your iPod, you might consider some other ways to download YouTube videos:

    - Firefox has an extension (add-on) called DownloadHelper that will download a YouTube video as a Flash (.flv) file for you. QuickTime Pro or VisualHub or iSquint can convert those to iPod format for you.

    - Many websites can convert a YouTube video to iPod format for you to download (just feed them the URL of the YouTube page with the video):




  6. Your Airport card is going to need an antenna to work. Wifi antennae are short, but necessary.


    I'm not sure how your brass plug is busted. I think that's at the end of a short piece of wire that runs to the iMac's built-in antenna. If the brass plug has just come off the end of the wire, you can still make a connection by inserting the exposed metal of the wire into the Airport card (you can make it snug with some other conductor. I'm fond of aluminum foil. Be sure it doesn't make contact with any other metal beside the inside of the wifi card connector.)


    If the connector is "busted" in a way that means it's not possible to connect the card to the iMac's built-in antenna, then you'll need to Mac-gyver your own antenna (or have the iMac's conector repaired.) Leaving about 4" of wire from the card sticking straight out of the mac shoudl do it, if it's not too long a distance (a properly tuned antenna will increase your range.) Again, the metal of the antenna can't touch any other metal on the iMac besides the Wifi card socket.


    There are plenty of on-line tutorials on improvising wifi antennae. E.g.:


  7. Are you sure it's really frozen ? If you have a movie that didn't come from the iTunes store, when you first add one of the extra tags that iTunes uses to keep artwork or other extended info, iTunes will actually copy the entire movie file to make room for the extended ID3 tags in the file. Copying a big movie takes quite a lot of time, iTunes is a pretty slow copy utility, and iTunes is often unresponsive while it does this.

  8. Well, it works as described if you navigate to the Download folder and then invoke Find (command-F).

    What doesn't work in Leopard is starting with "New Smart Folder", because the "Other" button is gone.


    I would think most people who want to make a smart folder would consider "New Smart Folder" the intuitive starting point. It'd be interesting to know why Apple thought removing the "Other..." button was an interface improvement.

  9. Glad that everythings working.

    I set the firewall to "set access for specific services and applications" now so my computer *should* be more secure? As in it will start asking for permission for programs to accept incoming connections?

    Yup, it'll ask about any apps that want to accept connection. 10.5 assigns firewall passes based on applications. 10.4 and before assigned firewall holes via ports.


    (If you want to play 20 questions with outgoing connections, too, you can install Little Snitch. A fun little app that simultaneously increases your security and sense of paranoia.

  10. It'll be fine, you just didn't get a full charge.


    Conventional wisdom holds that every now and then it's good to let the battery completely discharge and then completely recharge, or "cycle". Supposedly this extends the battery life by maintaining full charge capacity. I do it every month or so. (It also helps keep werewolves away. Or, maybe that was vampires...?)

  11. The SHARING section under your playlists only appears if you asked iTunes to look for shared libraries and iTunes finds at least one shared library on your local net.


    Have you done any customization to the OSX firewall or installed a 3rd party firewall (Brickhouse, Norton, etc) ?


    Are you all accessing the same router ?


    In you Security PrefPane, under Firewall tab, is it set to "Allow only essential services" (that would stop sharing.) Does iTunes appear with "Allow incomming connections?" You might set it to "Allow all incoming connections" while you investigaet the problem.


    If the firewall's in order, check your Mac's IP address compared to everyone elses. Are you on the same subnet ?

  12. So is the new IP address you would get from the DSL modem very different from the old on you had before?

    Oh, any IP address you get from your ISP will have several things in common: They'll have been assigned to the ISP, and allocated to a specific region. (All IP addresses have to be unique, so your ISP can't just assign you any old IP address, it has to give you one it has reserved for its customers.) For example, if you visit http://member.dnsstuff.com/pages/tools.php and type an IP address into the "IP Information" box, it will tell you the ISP and the location of that computer, usually accurate to a city, at least.

  13. Google shouldn't be able to get your identity from your ISP (without a warrant - which they couldn't get unless they could show criminal activity - i.e., they can't use if to detect the fraud unless they can already demonstrate the fraud.) At least that's the way the constitution used to work.


    But, most click-fraud isn't done from a single computer. Dialing up over and over for a few pennies a click is just too slow and tedious. It's done by tricking others into doing the "clicking" for you. For example, I might put a post in a forum that offers something atractive, such as 50% off iPods or free porn, but which, when clicked, actually contain the URL from the ad. Thus, tricking lots of peopel who wouldn't click on the ad into clicking on it anyway. Or, I might send out a mass eMail (spam) with a similar link. Those fraudent clicks would come from real people with real IP addresses. (The trick there is not letting Google find my trick post or eMail source, or at least making it untracable.)


    If you're doing big-time click-fraud, you can enlist a bot-net to your task. There are millions of malware-infected PCs in the world just waiting for a cyber-criminal to send it a command (such as a command to pretend to click on an ad.) Again, the IP addresses are all different, and most are real people who just don't know their Windows system is infected.


    Of course, if I'm going to claim to Google that I generated 250,000 ad clicks, I'd better be running a website that ranks at least that many visitors on Alexa. Google's likely to wonder how a blog with 50 daily readers generates $50k in ad revenue.

  14. Yeah, when you use dail-up, you'll almost always get a different IP address each call. A dial-up connection typically uses PPP to connect and authenticate with the ISP, and then to obtain an IP address for the session. Theoretically, I suppose your ISP could assign you the same IP address based on your authentication, but they won't (it'd mean they'd have to reserve a unique IP address for every customer, connected or not, and why do the extra work?)


    Even though DSL is "always connected", it's not uncommon for DSL ISPs to issue new IP addresses (via PPPoE) every time the home computer, router or modem is powered up. Cable connections (using DHCP) are more likely to keep re-issuing the same IP address to the same customer, but they don't have to.

  15. Once, I think back in 2001, I bought a a USB hub to hook up some peripherals to a TiBook (Printer, Scanner, Wacom tablet, microphone, and later a small camera.) It's an Asante and was powered (so I don't get the "low power" failure.) And it was godawful. The printer and scanner would just disappear sometimes, and I'd have to toggle power on the hub and peripherals and unplug the Mac to get things going again. I haven't used a USB hub since.


    So, I was thinking of a powered USB 2.0 hub now, because I've got too much crap to connect to my iMac to do so conveniently without one. Are these things trustworthy? I have a couple of USB 1.1 and USB 2.0 external hard drives, but I'm afraid to connect them via a hub because they aren't very forgiving of being dropped.


    Anyone used a USB 2 hub with a USB HD with good results? What brand/model would you like to recommend?

  16. I want to set WaterRoof up to allow communications with my AppleTV while, at the same time, being fairly locked down. I know hanyet has a "noob" program that is easier to use but it just doesn't offer the features I need (specifically blocking access to specific websites).

    I haven't used Waterroof, but I have used IPFW directly.


    How "precise" do you want to be? Depends on whether you are worried about intrusions from others on your local network.


    If you create a new rule in Waterroof to allow TCP and UDP to and from, that will open your Mac up to communicating with anything on your local network. ("" is based on your use of the LinkSys router to assign DHCP addresses in its default IP adress range.)


    If you can set your AppleTV to use a Static IP address ("Configure Manually" instead of setting it to use DHCP) then you can set the allowed IP address ("") to exactly your AppleTV (e.g. set your AppleTV's IP address to "" and then set Waterroof to allow TCP and UDP to/from, too. Any IP address within your LinkSys's netmask and outside it's DHCP range will do.)


    Note your LinkSys router, in its default config, provides a pretty fair external firewall to protect your home network from the internet outside, just because it uses NAT. You'd have to open up the LinkSys's Port Forwarding (or be targetted by very sophisticated attackers) to worry much about the outside world on the LAN side of your router.

  17. Not sure how you're "recovering" the data, but if you plan a clean install...

    Getting an old Mac to boot into OS 9 is pretty easy. Be sure to specify "install OS 9 drivers" when formatting the drive. You just need to copy the "System Folder" from the old system. That contains your System, Finder, Extensions and Control Panels. Drag and drop will do it, the classic OS wasn't fancy. You'll probably also want the "Applications (OS 9)" folder, too, so you have some apps to run with it.

    If you plan a clean install of OS X 10.4 or earlier, and want to use OS 9 apps in Classic, the installer should add the Classic environment for you when it sees you're using a G4 and have OS 9 installed. (Note OS X 10.5 doesn't support classic, so if you install 10.5, you'll be able to boot into OS 9 but not Classic.)

  18. As to the message you found in the log file... "diskarbitrationd" is the disk arbitration daemon, which is supposed to let all the other apps know whenever a new disk comes online (inserted CDs/DVDs or external HDs.) The SystemUIServer is the thing that handles extra menus displays (such as spotlight, clock,...); the fact that it didn't respond is worrisome if it happens often. Are there many similar messages in the log? (SystemUIServer could have crashed, or it could be busy responding to something else - something generating an awful lot of events.)


    Were you getting the beachball right after the clean install, or did it come back after you'd re-loaded your software?


    If you've gone back and re-installed a lot of your extra software (non-Apple mouse drivers, tablet drivers, well, just about anything with a drive, or any menu hacks or PrefPanes), you might try a clean boot (hold shift key down.) That will skip loading any non-Apple extras. You might also try removing any menubar hacks (MenuMeters or the like.)


    You might also try creating a second user account and use it, to see if the problem is specific to something you've done to your user account.


    Anything collecting crash logs in /Library/Logs/CrashReporter ?


    As a side story: a few weeks ago, most of the apps on my iMac hung with a beachball... after a reboot, it happened again,... and again,... I finally isolated it to the internal HD, which is intermittently falling out; which is why I'm booted off an external FW800 CCC clone right now. After a recent reboot, the iMac noticed the internal HD and mounted it (as a non-boot drive.) I didn't notice until the system once again hung waiting for it (during a Save As... operation. At least when it's not the system drive, that eventually timesout and recovers.) I mention this just to suggest that it's not impossible that it's a hardware problem. If it's a hardware issue, I'd expect the clean install to have the same beachballing.